From Our House to Yours

Forget our wedding anniversary, forget Christmas...

THIS is the day we celebrate.

Nine years ago today I arrived in Essaouira for the first time. I had no idea how to get to the cute little 'riad' I'd booked. And I felt like I needed the "right" person to show me the way. Many friendly people offered help, but I refused. Until HE came by.

My now husband Greg pointed me to the entrance of the medina and told me to go straight-left-right-right-left-left-right-left right-straight. I was sorry I waited for this young man. Sure, he was polite. But? His directions left a lot to be desired. So I took the plunge and entered the maze of the Essaouira medina feeling a little grumbly.

Just a few minutes later he returned. Asked my forgiveness for being so rude and offering to take me directly to the riad.

Within that 10 minute walk for some reason I knew he'd be my best friend. I pictured myself writing letters to him when I was an old lady.

When he dropped me off at the front door he again asked forgiveness for being rude, but he said wanted to ask me to his aunt's house for tea later that afternoon. I accepted the invitation. And the rest, they say, is history.

xo, j~

Stunning

Source: ****yeah-morocco.tumblr.com via moroccanadian on Pinterest

Give me a comfy place to sit ^in there^ and I'm not sure I'd ever want to leave.

The Shocking Truth About Women Traveling Alone in Morocco

My first trip to Morocco was nine years ago this week. It was only a year after 9-11 and some people thought I was crazy to go to a North African country alone.

And? I couldn't wait to get there.

I chose Morocco for various reasons. Mostly because I wanted - no - I NEEDED to go somewhere very "other". I wanted exotic beauty and I wanted sights and smells as foreign as they come. I needed to get lost in the medina. I needed to steam and scrub away my troubles at the hammam.

I chose the cities I wanted to see by colour. The terra cotta rose of Marrakech. The azure blue of Chefchaouen. The earthy tones of Fes. The sun, sea and sand (yellow, blue and white) of Essaouira.

So I threw everyone else's cautions to the wind and got on a plane. (Well, a couple of them actually.)

Was I worried about being scammed? Mugged? Harrassed? Being in the middle of a terrorist attack? No. I really wasn't. I am glad I didn't travel there with a spirit of fear and suspicion. Then I wouldn't have met the wonderful people I did, nor would I have had the amazing experiences I had.

Is that to say that Morocco is perfect? Absolutely not. If you are a young woman traveling alone, you will get tired of being called "gazelle". You might overpay for some trinkets in the souq if you're not careful. You might even end up with a taxi driver that decides to try take you to his friend's overpriced junk shop before dropping you off at your hotel. Be sure to brush up on your French, learn some Derija and be polite but very firm.

I always tell my friends and family that I feel safer in Morocco than in Canada. Nobody believes me. They just can't figure that out. But then? I took my mother with us on our most recent trip there in March of this year. And she said "I finally get it. I do feel safe here. If you were in trouble and called for help, the whole town would be there to rescue you. It wouldn't be that way at home..."

So what is my advice to women - younger and older - traveling to Morocco solo? Bring your patience and your sense of humour. Don't forget your common sense. Dressing a little more on the modest side doesn't hurt either. Women in Morocco are free to dress as they wish, but I think it's a good idea to respect the faith of 99% of Moroccan people and not dress like you would at a night club at home.

It really is as simple as that. If you have the desire to explore mysterious Morocco, by all means do some good, solid research. Have a plan, but be flexible. It will be a trip you'll never forget.

If anyone has any questions at all about Morocco, don't hesitate to go to my brand new Formspring page. I'll answer them as best as I can.

xo, j~

That's it. I'm buying a *wicked* caftan next time

we're in Morocco.

Just watching bits and pieces of "Caftan Maroc 2011" and I'm in love.



I wore a really pretty white one to our wedding, but I want one with some COLOUR. These are so much fun to look at.

I'm not sure where I'd wear a caftan in rainy Vancouver, but there's got to be somewhere, right? ;)

Do any of these catch your eye? Or do you think they're too over the top?

xo, j~

If you're ever in Marrakech....

This picture was taken on the terrace of Riad Nesma. Nesma means 'beautiful scent'.

(Exploring the website in and of itself feels like a holiday! Have a look.)

This is a great little place in the medina that we stayed at earlier this year in March. Reasonably priced and well-located. It is on a bit of a crazy street, but, well, most streets in Marrakech are crazy.

The rooms were well-decorated and immaculate. They weren't huge, but that's quite normal.

The gentleman who worked at the front desk spoiled our daughter. When we first arrived, she tried to take a peek behind that desk and with the most serious voice and austere face he said to her: "That is FORBIDDEN!"

Her eyes almost bulged out of her head. Then she realized he was joking, then the game was on. He always took time to make her laugh and tease her about something. (Yes, this is normal. We ended up staying in a much larger place on the beach in Essaouira a few days later. It had some pretty intimidating looking security guards out in front. And they were the same. They'll do anything to make a child smile. Kids are excellent ice breakers in Morocco. I wish it were this way in Canada. You take a child into a hotel, shop or restaurant they are far too often regarded with disdain.)

The women at Riad Nesma were lovely, too. The breakfast was up on the terrace very typical. Freshly baked baguettes, butter, jam, baghrir (Moroccan "pancakes") and amlou (a dip made from almonds, honey and culinary Argan Oil). And lots of coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice to drink.

We really had a nice stay at this riad. I'd stay there again for sure.

Although there are dozens of other riads to explore in Marrakech that I'd *love* to see.

xo, j~

Your chance to see and hear Saadia's town

Check out this little video I found of Essaouira. Enjoy!

I can't resist...

One more detail from Riad Kaiss:



Heavenly!

xo, j~

Nothing Better than a Wonderful Riad

Whenever people talk about their trips to Morocco I always find myself asking where they stayed. As soon as I hear the word "hotel" I feel the wind being taken out of my sails a bit. Yes, there are some really nice hotels in Morocco, but the real magic lies in the riads. So when I hear that little word I instantly perk up and have a million questions.

A riad is a traditional Moroccan house that is typically 3 or 4 floors high built around a central courtyard.

Some rooms in basic riads go for less than $10 a night. Others in palace-like riads cost several hundred into the thousands. Some are opulent and ornate, some are simple and sparse. Each one has it's own special charms.

Our favourite riad for years has been Riad Kaiss in Marrakech, pictured above. While looking at the new website it's definitely undergone some changes and it looks like it's under new management. But the riad we know and love is still there in a quiet corner of the medina. I can only guess it is still wonderful. Breakfasts on the rooftop terrace were always delicious. The staff was always gracious. It was always a serene oasis only a few minutes' walk to the central bustle of the Djemaa al Fna.

There are a lot of other riads that we love in Morocco. I hope to show a few more to you, soon!

xo, joèl

Welcome!

This is the blog where I will be sharing some photos and little tidbits about Morocco -- the home of Saadia who makes our Argan Oil for us and for you. It's really a fascinating place. It's not a perfect place by any means, but that is probably half the fun.

I'll begin with this photo of the Atlantic. It was taken in Essaouira in December of 2002. My husband and I were on one of our first dates a few days after we met. I think this wasn't too bad of a place to take me to see the sunset. ;)

So much has happened in the last nine years. Looking forward to the next 9, 19 and more...

xo,
joèl~